Kashmir Guide

Chinar House is in central Srinagar, so the city and the valleys are easy to reach. Dal Lake is 25 to 40 minutes away. Gulmarg, Pahalgam, and Sonamarg are each a full day out.

Dal Lake in Srinagar with houseboats, green hills, and a cloudy sky
A Mughal garden water channel in Srinagar

Things to do in Srinagar

You can see the main sights in one or two days. Leave time for traffic and a proper meal rather than rushing between stops.

A calm Srinagar lakeside scene with boats and mountains

Dal Lake and a shikara ride

A shikara is a small wooden boat, paddled by a boatman. A ride takes you past houseboats and floating gardens, with the Zabarwan hills behind.

Agree the price, route, and length of the ride before you get in. Go at sunrise to see the floating vegetable market.
A Mughal garden in Srinagar with fountains, trees, and mountain views

Mughal Gardens

Nishat Bagh and Shalimar Bagh are the two best known, with terraced lawns, water channels, and old chinar trees beside Dal Lake. Chashme Shahi is smaller and quicker to see.

With children or older parents, two gardens in a day is plenty.

Pari Mahal

A terraced garden on the hillside above Dal Lake, with one of the best views over the lake and the city.

Go in the late afternoon on a clear day and stay for sunset. Check the closing time first.
Red and yellow tulips blooming in a Srinagar garden
Seasonal

Tulip Garden

A large tulip garden near Dal Lake, below the Zabarwan hills. It opens for only a few weeks each spring, while the tulips are in bloom.

The dates change every year, so check that it is open before you plan around it.

Old Srinagar and its markets

Narrow lanes, old wooden houses, the Jamia Masjid, and bazaars selling dry fruits and saffron.

Dress modestly, and plan mosque visits around prayer times.

A simple 3-day plan

Day 1

Dal Lake and the gardens

Take a morning shikara ride, visit two Mughal gardens, and finish at Pari Mahal for sunset. In spring, add the Tulip Garden if it is open.

Day 2

A day in Gulmarg

Leave after an early breakfast. Ride the Gondola if it is running, walk in the meadows, and be back in Srinagar for dinner.

Day 3

Old Srinagar and Kashmiri food

Keep the last day easy. Walk the old city and its markets, stop for kahwa, and end with a Wazwan dinner.

Day trips from the house

Gulmarg, Pahalgam, and Sonamarg each take a full day. Do one per day, and leave early so the drive back is not rushed.

A green meadow in Gulmarg with daisies and mountain scenery

Gulmarg

What you will see: wide meadows, pine forest, and the Gulmarg Gondola, a cable car up the mountain.

From the house: about 53 km, 1.5 to 2.25 hours each way.

Buy Gondola tickets only on the official site, jammukashmircablecar.com. Pony and guide prices are fixed by the tourism department, so ask to see the rate list.
A river valley near Pahalgam with trees and mountains

Pahalgam

What you will see: the Lidder River, and Betaab and Aru valleys a short drive further up.

From the house: about 96 km, 2.5 to 3.5 hours each way.

To reach Aru, Betaab, or Chandanwari, visitors usually switch to a local Pahalgam taxi. It costs extra, at rates set by the tourism department.
A turquoise river flowing through pine forest near Sonamarg

Sonamarg

What you will see: the Sindh River, pine forest, and Thajiwas Glacier, reached on foot or by pony.

From the house: about 84 km, 2.5 to 3.5 hours each way.

The road also carries Amarnath Yatra pilgrims in summer, so traffic can be heavy. Start early.
Traditional Kashmiri Wazwan dishes and spices

Kashmiri food to try

Wazwan is Kashmir's traditional feast: many slow-cooked meat dishes, served one after another. Save it for a relaxed evening, not the night of a long drive.

Rogan Josh

Mutton in a rich red gravy, coloured with Kashmiri chillies.

Rista

Soft mutton meatballs in a red gravy. A Wazwan staple.

Gushtaba

Large, soft mutton meatballs in a yoghurt gravy. Traditionally the last dish of a Wazwan.

Tabak Maaz

Lamb ribs, simmered and then fried until crisp. Good for sharing.

Yakhni

A mild yoghurt curry, flavoured with fennel and cardamom.

Tujji

Kashmiri barbecue: meat grilled on skewers over charcoal, eaten with chutney and bread.

Nadru

Lotus stem. Cooked in yakhni, or fried as a crisp snack.

Kahwa

Green tea brewed with saffron, cinnamon, and cardamom, topped with almonds.

Where to eat in Srinagar

A short list, grouped by the kind of meal you want. It is not a ranking. Hours and quality change, so check recent reviews or call before you go.

Kashmiri food and Wazwan

Traditional

Ahdoos

Why go
A long-running Srinagar restaurant on Residency Road, known for Wazwan.
Order
Rogan Josh, Rista, Gushtaba, Tabak Maaz, Nadru Yakhni, Kahwa.
Setting
Traditional, often busy.

Call ahead if you are a large group.

Family table

Mughal Darbar

Why go
A large, well-known restaurant for Wazwan and Kashmiri dishes in central Srinagar.
Order
Wazwan dishes, Rogan Josh, Gushtaba, biryani.
Setting
Casual, often busy.

Other places use similar names, so check the address before you set off.

Barbecue (tujji)

Street food

Khayam Chowk

Why go
Srinagar's main street for Kashmiri barbecue, lined with tujji stalls.
Order
Tujji with chutney and bread.
Families
Yes, if you are happy eating street food.
Setting
Busy street stalls.

Ask a local which stall is good at the moment.

Quick stop

Imran Cafeteria

Why go
A barbecue spot on the Khayam Chowk food street.
Order
Tujji, barbecue chicken, kebabs.
Families
Yes, for a quick meal.
Setting
Casual.

It can get crowded. Check recent reviews before you go.

Easy family meals

Reliable

Stream Restaurant

Why go
A straightforward lunch or dinner near Boulevard Road and Dalgate.
Order
Rogan Josh, North Indian dishes, simple vegetarian food.
Setting
Casual.

Expect a wait at peak meal times.

By the lake

Shamyana Restaurant

Why go
A handy meal near Dal Gate when your day is around Dal Lake.
Order
Kebabs, biryani, Kashmiri curries, vegetarian dishes.
Setting
Casual.

Easy to pair with a shikara ride or the gardens.

Vegetarian

Krishna Vaishno Dhaba

Why go
A pure-vegetarian dhaba near Dal Gate.
Order
Dal, paneer, rotis, rice, thali.
Setting
Simple dhaba.

A good break from meat-heavy Kashmiri meals.

Tea and light meals

Tea room

Chai Jaai

Why go
A tea room near The Bund for kahwa and a slow afternoon break.
Order
Kahwa, noon chai (Kashmiri pink salted tea), breads, light snacks.
Setting
Tea room.

It can get busy around tea time.

Special occasions and views

Formal meal

The Chinar at The LaLiT Grand Palace

Why go
A formal meal at The LaLiT Grand Palace, a former royal palace that is now a hotel.
Order
Buffet, Kashmiri dishes, North Indian dishes.
Setting
Formal.

Call ahead to book and to check entry for people not staying at the hotel.

View

Taj Dal View, Srinagar

Why go
Tea or coffee at the Tulip Lounge, looking out over Dal Lake and the city.
Order
Kahwa, coffee, bakery plates.
Setting
Hotel lounge.

Call ahead to check opening hours and whether non-guests can come in.

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